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Tennis Racquets & Strings
 Please select a brand of Tennis Racquet or
Please select a brand of Racquet Strings or
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Tennis Racquet & Strings Information
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At nothingbuttennis.com, racquets are strung by USRSA
certified stringers.
Beginners:
Consider using an oversize racquet (head area at least 100 square inches). Consider using a racquet that is 9 ounces to 10 ounces heavy. Racquets generally weigh between 8 ounces and 12.5 ounces.
Intermediate players:
Consider a racquet that is in the mid-range of control and power: in the average range of weight, head size, and beam width (width of the frame at the throat).
Intermediate to early advanced players:
If you can generate enough power, consider using a racquet designed to provide more control. Such racquets will be heavier (more than 10 ounces) and can have smaller head areas.
Advanced players:
You already know what you want don't you?
Parents:
Kids racquets come in lengths starting at 21 inches, then proceeding up to 23, 25, and 26 inches. An adult racquet is 27 inches to 27.5 inches long (28" also exist but are for the adventurous).
As you play tennis, the racquet frame (not just the strings) distorts each time you hit the ball. The process over thousands of cycles damages the bonds of the graphite fibers and the resins that hold them together. Graphite is the primary compound used in making racquets. Eventually the frame loses stiffness and you LOSE POWER and LOSE CONTROL. You should replace your racquet at intervals you deem appropriate (a frequent player should change every 2 years, an occasional player every 5 years). We strongly advise you not to smack your racquet on the ground in frustration, you will probably have reduced the useful life by quite a bit.
Racquets come in different string patterns. A 16 by 20 pattern will perform differently than a 18 by 20 pattern. Dense patterns give more control. More open patterns will give more slice or topspin. It is up to you to decide what suits you best.
A heavy racquet is generally suited to baseline players since it gives more power and helps force dropping the racquet during the back swing. Lighter racquets are generally more suited to serve and volley players and players who consistently use full and fast swings ("take their racquet back"). Many agree that the best racquets for performance and avoiding injury are heavy overall but head light. If you want to tinker with the weight of your existing racquet, you can buy lead tape or other tape weights available from many of the manufacturers to add weight to the frame. Adding overgrip also increases the weight slightly. Racquet models turnover frequently, so don’t think your next racquet will be the same as the one you are playing with now.
Strings come in different thickness: from 18 gauge (very thin) to 15 gauge (thick). Thicker strings offer relatively more durability. Thinner strings offer relatively better "feel" for better control, but will break more frequently.
Many racquets are designed so that the main strings end at the throat area. When this is the case, each MAIN string should be tied off at the throat area (2 knots). Since the racquet should be strung with the CROSS strings starting at the top, there should be 1 knot there. When all of the CROSS strings are installed, the final end should be tied off (1 knot at the lower end, between the bottom hole and a dozen holes up). There should be 4 knots total.
Some other racquets, however, are designed with the MAIN strings ending at the top. If this is the condition, the short side of the MAIN string will be tied off at the top (1 knot). The remaining string will make up the cross strings, starting at the top and tied off at the bottom (1 knot). You will have 2 knots.
Sometimes the stringer might be in a hurry and is a rookie and uses one piece of string (2 knots). If your racquet REQUIRES 4 knots, and only two are used, your racquet frame could be subjected to different stress conditions than what it was designed for.
Synthetic strings begin to lose tension at about 110 degrees F. On a hot summer day, the temperature inside your car can reach 140 degrees F. High heat will also begin to soften the resins in your racquet frame, causing premature damage and distortion. So remember, for example, to take your racquet with you to the office rather than leave it in the car.
As a general rule of thumb, tighter (higher) string tension provides relatively more control and spin. Loose (lower) tension provides a softer feel (easier on wrist, elbow, and shoulder), a bigger sweetspot, and more power.
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Not sure what grip size to use? Click here and print this pdf diagram.
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String materials:
Natural Gut: - This is what is used by most touring professionals. It is relatively expensive, is made of animal intestines, and provides the best playability and feel in a tennis string. Its natural low dynamic stiffness allows for a unique response on contact with a tennis ball.
Synthetic Gut: This is typically a nylon string. Most models are less expensive than natural gut and can be tailored to enhance specific properties. A focus on one property can typically mean a sacrifice of another. The vast majority of today's amateur and recreational players use nylon and the vast majority of string models consist of nylon elements. Nylon strings come in a wide price range and quality range.
Polyester (or PE):
This is a very durable string. Sacrifices
power and feel for durability. Polyesters lose alot
of tension during the string job but then stabilize
(unlike soft strings that lose more tension during
play). You do not want to have polyesters strung too
tight because they are very stiff (low elastic
resiliency) and would create a very tight stringbed.
You actually want your polyesters to be a little bit
loose.
Kevlar (Aramid): This is an even more durable string compound but it is also relatively very stiff, holds tension better than PE, and also sacrifices feel and playability for durability. Because of its high stiffness it is usually only used in hybrid string jobs (e.g. use Kevlar for mains but nylon for crosses) and the reference tension is lowered by about 6 lbs.
Racquet Stiffness:
Many people report "stiffness" numbers for racquets. Generally they are talking about flex numbers obtained from a diagnostic machine made by Babolat. Measurements range from 50 to 80. As a general rule of thumb:
Stiffer racquets will provide more power, but if you have wrist, elbow, or shoulder issues, a flexible racquet will be easier on the body.
USRSA Power Rating:
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